Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Albania – The Nicest Peace Corps Country?

There’s been some debate between volunteers about where Albania may rank in livability amongst Peace Corps countries. It usually happens after someone complains about something, whether it has to do with living here or administrative policies. The general consensus: chill out, this is probably the very best place you could have been sent.

I’ve been reflecting on my own ideas about what I thought life here might be like now that I’ve been here for four months. Shortly put, it’s not what I had imagined when I received the initial information packets. It’s hard to believe, as I look out onto the sea, that this is not only a Peace Corps country, but a Peace Corps site. However, I am certain that we are needed here and that there is a lot of work to be done here regardless of the steps Albania continues to take in the right direction. There are still a lot of infrastructural and practical problems that make living here sometimes unexpectedly dangerous (I will write more about this later), as well as governmental corruption and rampant academic dishonesty. As I mentioned in a previous post, these are all tell-tale signs of a country with growing pains.
Looking at my situation so far, it’s difficult to believe this is my Peace Corps reality. Part of it comes from the fact that when people think about Peace Corps, they frequently think far-flung African villages, living in huts and carrying water for long distances. While that is someone’s reality, it’s not mine. I didn’t know what to expect when I first applied since the Peace Corps keeps us on our toes by nominating us to the broadest of geographical regions (i.e. “Central Asia”) and giving us very little say in the matter. We trust that they will match us and create the best fit for our skill set and the needs of host countries. I just happened to end up in Albania, but it could have been anywhere. Peace Corps Albania is different from every other Peace Corps country and vice versa.

Most of us have the creature comforts that we are accustomed, or rather, addicted to, when we lived in the States. Last week, my host father’s small food store got the internet. A neighboring store selling lottery tickets got the internet and shares the connection with my host dad. This allows my fourteen year-old brother to play internet poker most of the day. My dad’s store having the internet is another example of just how quickly Albania, and the world, are changing.

Before I came here, I didn’t plan on having the internet or cellular service. So it’s surprising to have the internet in my school and an internet café five minutes from my house. Just last week, a brand new internet café opened. With another on the beach front, this town of about 5,000 now has three internet sources. I’m almost certain there will be a few more going in before my two years are completed. When I first got here, I thought I needed to have the internet, especially to keep in touch with other volunteers. But I remembered how I had envisioned my service prior to my arrival, and more than anything else, I want to live like a normal Albanian here. At this point, that means that I don’t have the internet in my house. Personal internet access continues to grow and many volunteers have the internet at their house. I think that there is a danger in getting too involved with trying to imitate our American lives here in Albania. Firstly, it comes down to money. We only have a certain amount, and if you want internet and cable, it’s a significant portion of your monthly living allowance. But more importantly, you can sit on the internet anywhere. When I think about all the time I would spend online in the US, I almost feel nauseous. I wanted to make some changes when I came here, and internet usage was certainly one of them. I’ve found that I don’t even miss it, even if I go a couple days without reading my mail. I’ve learned how to budget my internet time a lot more wisely as well. You’d be surprised that a life without 24/7 internet can in fact be rewarding!

As far as telephones are concerned, there are many locations to make international calls (although I prefer to use Skype instead). A frequent joking point amongst volunteers, most Albanians have two or even three different prepaid cellular providers. I have my Peace Corps issued phone through Vodafone and an additional phone from Eagle Mobile. Previously, Albania was dominated by Vodafone. It still has the best saturation throughout the country, which is why the Peace Corps uses it. However, two other competing brands have sprung up. They offer some fantastic deals to lure customers away from Vodafone. Eagle, my other provider, has a plan for 800Lek ($8.25) that allows users in the same plan to text for 1Lek and call for 3Lek. From 8:00PM to 8:00AM, you can talk for free. It’s a great deal but Eagle hasn’t spread to the more remote parts of the country just yet.

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